Conditions › Ingrown Hairs
Ingrown Hairs – Specialist Treatment for Bumps, Pigmentation & Scarring in London
Ingrown hairs occur when hair curls or grows sideways into the skin, leading to bumps, redness, tenderness and sometimes infection. In deeper or repeated cases, lingering dark marks and scars can follow. At Skinhorizon Clinic in Maida Vale, our consultant dermatologist builds a plan that calms inflammation, clears active bumps, prevents recurrence and fades marks—safely across all skin tones.
Call Us Book ConsultationWhat are ingrown hairs?
An ingrown hair forms when the emerging tip curls back or a cut hair re‑enters the skin, acting like a tiny foreign body. The immune system responds, creating a tender bump that can look like acne. If bacteria are present, a small pustule may develop. Repeated episodes can leave post‑inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) or even scars.
Why they happen: causes & risk factors
- Hair type & curl: tightly curled or coarse hair bends more readily into the skin.
- Shaving method: very close shaves, multi‑blade razors and dry shaving increase the risk of sharp stubble re‑penetrating the skin.
- Waxing/plucking: regrowth through a narrowed follicular opening can become trapped.
- Dead skin build‑up: excess keratin can cover the follicular opening.
- Friction & occlusion: tight collars, sportswear or underwear increase local irritation and trapping.
Symptoms & patterns
Common features include:
- Red or skin‑coloured bumps (papules), sometimes with a pinpoint hair loop under the surface.
- Pustules if bacteria are present; tenderness or itch.
- Clusters on the beard/neck, underarms, pubic/bikini line, buttocks or legs.
- Dark marks (PIH) that outlast the bump; occasional thickened scars or keloids after repeated inflammation.
Diagnosis & what we rule out
Diagnosis is clinical. Dermoscopy may reveal the hair loop or transfollicular growth. We also consider differentials such as acne, bacterial folliculitis, hidradenitis suppurativa (if in skin folds with sinus tracts), keratosis pilaris and, rarely, foreign body reactions. Cultures are taken when infection is suspected.
Expert Ingrown Hair Treatment in Central London
Calm bumps, break the flare‑up cycle and fade dark marks with a consultant‑led plan tailored to your skin and hair type.
Call Us Book ConsultationTreatment & management
Medical skincare
- Retinoids (e.g., adapalene/tretinoin) to reduce keratin build‑up and help free trapped hairs.
- Keratolytics such as salicylic or glycolic acid to keep follicular openings clear.
- Topical antibiotics for localized infection; short oral antibiotics if cellulitis or extensive folliculitis is present.
- Anti‑inflammatory agents (e.g., mild topical steroids for a brief course) to settle tender flare‑ups.
- PIH care: azelaic acid, retinoids and pigment‑safe peels to fade dark marks.
Chemical peels
Supervised salicylic or glycolic peels can reset bumpy texture and speed PIH fade. Protocols are tailored to skin tone with conservative first sessions.
Laser hair removal
Reducing hair density is the most effective long‑term solution for chronic ingrown hairs. We select devices and wavelengths according to hair and skin type—commonly diode for lighter skin and 1064 nm Nd:YAG for deeper skin tones. Fewer, finer hairs mean fewer ingrowns.
- Course of sessions every 4–8 weeks (area dependent).
- Pigment‑aware settings, test spots and strict sun care to minimise PIH risk.
Shaving & hair‑removal coaching
- Hydrate hair with warm water for 2–3 minutes before shaving.
- Use a slip‑rich shave gel; avoid soaps that strip.
- Shave with the grain using short strokes; avoid stretching the skin.
- Choose a single or fewer‑blade razor; rinse after every stroke.
- Do not aim for baby‑smooth finish; leave a 0.5–1 mm stubble.
- Post‑shave: cool rinse, pat dry, apply a non‑comedogenic moisturiser ± salicylic toner 2–3×/week.
Clothing & training tweaks
- Switch to breathable, non‑abrasive fabrics; avoid tight seams over problem zones.
- Shower and change soon after exercise to reduce occlusion and friction.
Special situations
- Pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB): common in curly hair types along the beard/neck; we emphasise shaving changes + Nd:YAG laser for durable control.
- Bikini line & underarms: friction and occlusion drive recurrence; laser plus clothing and schedule tweaks help most.
- Skin of colour: greater PIH/keloid tendency; pigment‑aware peels, cautious actives and 1064 nm laser settings reduce risk.
- Keloid‑prone patients: we avoid trauma, treat early inflammation, and discuss scar‑care strategies if needed.
Aftercare & maintenance
- Flare days: cool compress 5–10 minutes, then a thin layer of prescribed anti‑inflammatory or antibiotic if indicated.
- Daily: gentle cleanser; light, non‑comedogenic moisturiser; broad‑spectrum SPF 30–50 to protect PIH.
- 2–4×/week: keratolytic step (salicylic/glycolic) unless irritated.
- Laser courses: avoid plucking/waxing between sessions; clip or shave only as instructed; keep skin cool and protected post‑session.
When to seek urgent care
- Rapidly enlarging, intensely painful lump with fever (possible abscess).
- Spreading redness, warmth or systemic symptoms.
- Severe reaction after a home extraction attempt.
Why choose Skinhorizon?
- Consultant dermatologist‑led: we separate ingrown hairs from acne, folliculitis and hidradenitis, so treatment matches the cause.
- Full toolkit: medical skincare, pigment‑aware peels and laser hair removal suitable for all skin tones.
- Focus on marks & scars: targeted PIH fade and scar‑prevention steps built into every plan.
- Clear guidance: written shaving routines, friction fixes and maintenance cadence you can stick to.
Your first visit — what to expect
- History: hair type, removal methods, clothing/training, prior infections or scars.
- Examination: map of active bumps, PIH and any scarring; dermoscopy if needed.
- Plan: immediate symptom control + prevention (skincare, shaving changes) and discussion of laser suitability.
- Start: many patients begin treatment the same day (e.g., skincare protocol or first laser test spot).
- Follow‑up: reviews to track flare rate, PIH fade and adjust cadence.
Reviewed by: Dr Mohammad Ghazavi, Consultant Dermatologist
Skinhorizon Clinic, 4 Clarendon Terrace, Maida Vale, London W9 1BZ
Last reviewed: 21 August 2025
Get expert help to stop painful bumps, prevent infection and fade dark marks—for good.
Call Us Book ConsultationIngrown Hairs FAQs
What are ingrown hairs and why do they occur?
They occur when a hair curves back or re‑enters the skin after shaving/waxing, triggering inflammation. Curly/coarse hair, very close shaves and friction make them more likely.
What symptoms do ingrown hairs cause?
Itchy or tender bumps, pustules, “shaving rash”, and lingering dark marks (PIH). Repeated episodes can scar or form keloids in susceptible people.
Can ingrown hairs lead to complications?
Yes—bacterial infection, abscesses, PIH and scarring. Early treatment helps prevent these outcomes.
How are ingrown hairs treated by dermatologists?
With medical skincare (retinoids/keratolytics), antibiotics when infected, pigment‑aware chemical peels, and laser hair removal to reduce regrowth that causes the cycle.
How can I prevent ingrown hairs from returning?
Hydrate before shaving, shave with the grain using fewer‑blade razors, avoid skin stretching, use slip‑rich gels, and consider laser for long‑term control.
